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Journal

Notes from the jungle.

Wildlife, conservation, driving tips and the story of how a piece of land became Maze Lodge. Written by the people who live here.

Boat heading into Corcovado National Park

Is Corcovado worth it? An honest answer

$175, a 4 am start and six hours of walking. Who it is worth it for — and who should skip it.

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Scarlet macaws in flight over the Osa Peninsula

Scarlet macaws: where and when to see them

Where they feed, what time they fly, and why they came back from near-collapse here.

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Squirrel monkeys in the canopy at Maze Lodge

Costa Rica's four monkey species

How to tell them apart, and how to find all four in a single morning on the Osa.

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Tree frog photographed on a night walk

Night walks: what comes out after dark

Red-eyed tree frogs, glowing scorpions, snakes and kinkajous — and why to do it on your first evening.

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Pacific beach on the Osa Peninsula where turtles nest

Sea turtle nesting on the Osa

Olive ridleys come ashore from July to December. When, where, and the rules that decide whether you help or harm.

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Fiery-billed aracari at Maze Lodge

Birding the Osa Peninsula: 460 species and where to start

The endemics, the habitats worth your mornings, and an honest plan for a first birding trip.

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Snake photographed at night in the rainforest

Snakes and safety in the rainforest — the calm version

Which snakes matter, how bites actually happen, and why we worry about this less than you do.

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Empty beach at Carate on the Osa Peninsula

Cabo Matapalo and Carate: the wild end of the Osa

Surf over rock shelves, a waterfall to swim under, and the gravel road that gets you there.

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The Golfo Dulce from Puerto Jiménez

Puerto Jiménez: the practical guide

ATMs, supermarkets, fuel, the pier, the clinic and where to eat — the town everything here runs through.

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The Golfo Dulce seen from the Osa Peninsula

Drake Bay or Puerto Jiménez? Choosing your side of the Osa

The two gateways to Corcovado compared honestly — access, cost, ATMs, and which trip each one suits.

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Humpback whale in the Golfo Dulce

Whale watching in the Golfo Dulce: the complete season guide

Humpbacks from both hemispheres, eight months a year. When to come and how to watch them properly.

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Beach and forest at Carate, near the La Leona entrance

Sirena, La Leona or El Tigre? Choosing your Corcovado entrance

All five ranger stations compared: access, effort, wildlife odds, cost and who each one suits.

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Trail through the primary rainforest at Maze Lodge

What to pack for the Osa Peninsula

What earns its place in the bag for Corcovado, the gulf and the gravel roads — and what to leave at home.

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Boat on the Golfo Dulce at dusk

Bioluminescence in the Golfo Dulce

Why the water glows, which nights are best, and why your phone will not capture a second of it.

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Sunset over the Golfo Dulce

A 5-day Osa Peninsula itinerary that actually works

Day by day, with times and costs — and the rest days that make the big days worth it.

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Rainforest trail in Corcovado National Park

Corcovado National Park: the complete guide (2026)

The five entrances compared, permits, 2026 capacity limits, costs, and what you will actually see.

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Rainforest canopy on the Osa Peninsula seen from the air

The best time to visit the Osa Peninsula: month by month

Weather, whales, turtles, roads and prices — and the honest case for the green season.

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The gravel road up to Maze Lodge

How to get to Puerto Jiménez and the Osa Peninsula

Flights, driving, shuttles, bus and the Golfito ferry — times, costs and road advice.

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Boat tour on the Golfo Dulce

15 things to do on the Osa Peninsula

Corcovado, whales, bioluminescence, night walks and empty beaches — with 2026 prices.

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Squirrel monkey

Wildlife of the Osa Peninsula: what you'll see, where and when

Four monkey species, five wild cats, 460 birds, tapirs and whales — what lives here, where to find it, and how to see more of it.

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Osa beach from above

Best places to visit in Costa Rica

Costa Rica knows how to impress. Our honest list — and why the Osa is where we'd send our own family.

Alexander Lionett
Sloth

Conservation on the Osa: what is at stake, and what a visitor can do

Gold mining, deforestation, poaching and a park under strain — and the choices a traveller actually controls.

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Hills of the Osa

Driving on the Osa Peninsula — roads, 4x4s and river crossings

Which roads need a 4x4, how river crossings work, where the fuel is — and the last gravel stretch to our gate.

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Toucan Lodge at dusk

Why it's called Maze Lodge — and why we built four small lodges

We came in 2022, bought a hillside on a wildlife corridor, and built inside the forest rather than clearing it.

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Read it from the terrace.

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